Lower league football often gets a bad rap for being less glamorous and skilful than the money rich top tier. Lower league football however is the foundation on which everything else is built and without it the whole thing would come crumbling down.
On the 18th of December I made the trip to Italy with the sole intention of catching a shed load of Calcio before it went on its winter break. This would not be my first time at the rodeo as they say as I had been over to watch three matches some years before. This time however I was going for a new personal best of four. Two of which would be from the lower divisions and it is of those that I’ve been asked to give you the lowdown on.
The first match of the hectic weekend to follow took place on Saturday afternoon in Mantua, a city two hours from Milan. The game itself was between Mantova and Pro Patria, two sides struggling towards the bottom of Lega Pro Girone A.
We got to the stadium over two hours before the match and although we were very early it was still surprisingly quite. In fact, the only way to tell that a match was on was down to a decent police presence who had cordoned off the surrounding roads.
As we made or way around the stadium we came across the arriving Pro Patria side who despite sitting rock bottom of the table pulled up in a rather snazzy bus. As the time moved on the crowds slowly began to gather and a nice atmosphere began to build.
The Curva Té in Mantova at Kick-Off
40 minutes or so before kick-off we went to the small ticket kiosk that stood not far from the Curva Té where the Mantova Ultras gather. Our tickets had been pre-purchased (Easily purchased on day also) so we just picked them up with no fuss at all, both only costing the princely sum of five euro.
The five euro tickets were for the aforementioned Curva Té, tickets in the other parts of the do cost more but still are very low, if you don’t fancy going in with the Ultras. Also don’t worry about not being able to pick up a ticket the chances of selling out are almost non-existent.
With the tickets sorted there was just time to buy a Mantova scarf before heading in. In truth the Stadio Danilo Martelli is not in the greatest condition with the old Curva Té closed off and a new almost scaffold like structure built in front of it.
Really though it is not the stadium nor is it even really the football that you attend these types of matches for, what makes them so great is the fans. Although not as numerous as say Juventus or Inter fans they are just as passionate.
This was truly evident in the fact that the Ultras sung their hearts out from start to finish. Thankfully they were so enjoyable to watch because the first 45 minutes of football was dire as the two sides did everything in their power just not to lose.
Three minutes into the second half though Pro Patria scored a fortuitous opener and from there the match came to life. Despite having no allegiance to Mantova the passion of the Ultras and their constant signing could not help but draw you in and I found myself clamouring for the equaliser.
That leveller did come two minutes from time much to the ecstasy of those around me. That was how things would finish despite five minutes of stoppage time. A result that far from satisfied the locals who climbed atop the fence that separated them from the pitch to hiss and whistle at the players as they came down to salute them.
The football may not have been the best but my God was it entertaining to be only a few feet from a group of passionate Ultras.
Full Time at the Stadio Tardini in Parma
The second lower division match I attended was one that had a special significance to me being a Parma fan. After the club went bust over the summer and was forced to start again in Serie D I was determined to make the tip over for a match.
And it was an unforgettable experience. Again we arrived early and again we picked up the tickets for a fiver in the Curva Nord with the Boys Ultras group. Despite being at an even lower level there was definitely more of a buzz earlier around the stadium. This was to be expected with Parma being a traditionally bigger club than Mantova.
We made our way into the Tardini and situated ourselves not far from where the Ultras gather. The stadium quickly began to fill-up until just before kick-off with a crackling atmosphere now in full flow. To be honest I didn’t even see the kick-off down to the simple fact that my view was obstructed by a sea of flags and billowing yellow smoke. Not that I was annoyed though like I already said the spectacle is half the enjoyment.
As ever the Ultras sang and sang and their passion for the club was undeniable despite what may be said sometimes in the press about Ultra groups in general.
The standard of the football was surprisingly good, much better than what was on display in Mantova despite it being a level higher. The match flew by and the nerves and excitement were just through the roof as Parma fell behind twice. However, with the stadium announcer literally just coming over the speaker to announce five minutes of stoppage time Marco Melandri scored a beauty to earn the Crociati a point.
The atmosphere at the end of this one was a lot more jovial as the players and fans applauded one another in unison. It was simply a fantastic experience that will never be forgotten.
So the crux of the matter is if you are thinking of heading to Italy to watch a Serie A match I highly recommend you also catch a lower level game as well. The tickets are cheap and readily available. The fans that do go are truly passionate about their club which only enhances the experience.
My View at Kick-Off at the Tardini
Really there is no excuse for not attending one with most clubs at this level being only a stone’s throw from the big cities where most Serie A clubs are situated. All that I can say is you’ll definitely not regret attending a match at the lower levels and even on some level you might even enjoy it more.
Tips and Information for attending a Lower League Match in Italy:
- Get there early. It may be obvious but it makes sense to get there in plenty of time so you can suss out the lie of the land
- Bring your passport with you. When buying tickets outside the stadium they will ask for documentation and the passport is the best way to go.
- Tickets are generally cheap and readily available. So while I said get there early don’t kill yourself in doing so you will get in.
- You won’t be able to bring drink or food inside the ground. So either fill up before going in or pay higher while inside.
- If you are worried about going in with the Ultras don’t be. They do sing all match and sometimes your vision maybe obscured but 99 times out of 100 they are just there to enjoy the match. The horror stories you may here about them are generally just that stories not based in fact.
- Further to the last point, if you can get in with the Ultras do it, it will only further enhance the experience and will be something unforgettable.
- Lastly, enjoy the experience there is just nothing like a game of Lower league Calcio to really make you want to come back for more.
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